2018年1月31日星期三

The Darkest Hour 最‧黑夜

In a nutshell: do give it a go, if you are not very picky on burgers just like me.
簡評:如果您也像我,對漢堡的要求不太刁鑽,便來一趟吧。

When I was going to conclude this evening's visit to this area of the former Walled City, she said, "let's go to visit someone, just two blocks away".  I immediately understood what she meant and swiftly agreed.

當我們吃過一餐、我想要結束今晚的「圍城之旅」,同伴說:「我想到那裡看一看」。我馬上明解;那只是兩街之隔。就過去吧。

When we reached the street I saw why it was publicized.  With one side of the street totally blocked for MTR construction (and parking spaces, the lifeblood of F&B, eliminated), shops here are destined to a hard time.  It was 9pm when we reached this place, and I saw a couple and a foreign family with 2 small children (who didn't seem to be able to take a burger or even share it).  Depressing but not surprising.

當我們到達時,我便明白為何這兒獲得大肆報導了。一邊馬路基本上被地鐵工程完全遮蓋 (而作為食肆命脈的錶位,亦冇得留低),而店家當然沒有好日子過。我們進店時為晚上九時,店內只有一對情侶和一個外籍人士的小家庭 (包括兩個小孩 - 看來不像可以一人一個漢堡包!)。那冷落是早能想像的,不過親歷其境才明白有幾灰。

The shop-owner greeted her (which I understood!), and gave us a treat of beer samples from a vendor.  "Try these ... I can't try too many as I would get drunk!"  The darker one tasted close to a porter, and the "banana taste beer" ... well, tasted like banana.  Can't say I liked it, but I am not a big fan of beer anyway.

店主看見她便立即出來歡迎 (我明嘅),並馬上請我們喝供應商剛拿來給他試飲的啤酒。「我不能試太多 ... 會醉!」面前這枝深色瓶身的,喝來讓我想起波打酒;而那香蕉味的則 ... 像香蕉囉。談不上喜歡,畢竟我也不是好此道者。
This is the first time I drink Trappist beer.  修道院啤酒,有聽過,但首次品嚐

Banana has similar colour as beer, so it looks just like "normal" beer.  蕉是黃,啤也是黃,所以蕉啤也不需「整色整水」了

With the previous meal still travelling to the stomach, I was not sure if I can engulf a whole burger (hey it's not McD's).  As long as we were there, we tried his recommendations anyway: Hida beef and US beef (we shared both).  The former is much more tender and juicy (I had a handful), and there was a piece of pineapple which added a hint of freshness and alleviated the greasy feeling.

上一餐還未落格,我真難以想像吃得下整個漢堡 (大佬,唔係老麥喎)。但既然來了,當然要試一試店主推介:今晚我們分別嚐了飛騨牛肉和美國牛肉。前者肉質鬆軟有多汁 (簡直成手都係),而包中有一塊頗有份量的菠蘿,為這包加添一份「鮮」味,也緩和了油膩感。
Caesar Salad was just so-so  附餐的凱撒沙律,純粹要其纖維,味道一般

A simplistic presentation of the Hida burger - I like it without the fries.  飛騨堡,很簡約的端上桌;沒薯條,最好

Now you can see the pineapple!  如此,菠蘿就清晰可見

The owner also runs a bakery which has been around for decades, so the bread is in-house of course.  It was soft and had a crispy surface, but not enough moist in my opinion.  The burger was too thick for me to have everything in one single bite, and I could not tell the taste of each ingredient either (but what's the point?  I would eat them in turn if I were to do that).  I had little experience with burgers, so I didn't know what to look for; with the one in front of me I had a feeling of harmony, and I think that's good enough.

店主在這區也在經營一家由父輩做起的麵包店,所以漢堡包當然是自家製作。包是做得外脆內軟沒錯,但稍嫌乾了點。無論我多「大口」,也無法一啖咬盡所有材料,亦無法分清各樣材料的味道 (又如何?又不是逐樣試味。吃漢堡不就是要享受大塊朵頤?) 我對漢堡見識少,也不知道該期待些甚麼;而面前的這半個,我吃著覺得很和諧,那應該就夠了吧。

The US beef burger has a portobello in it, and it was overshadowed by the stronger taste of the beef which is more chewy then Hida.  The pineapple impressed me more, probably because I still have a rather childish taste!

美國牛肉漢堡,中間有一塊 portobello,但本身無味的它明顯被牛肉的濃味蓋過了;若您愛咬口,這牛肉是比飛騨牛肉有「趙」頭的。相較 portobello,我始終喜歡菠蘿多些,也許因為我的口味還很「細路」吧!
Traces of portobello on the side.  這碟更耐人尋味,旁邊有兩小塊 portobello,算是伴碟?

I managed to take a photo of its "cross-section"!  我拍了這個包的「橫切面」,清楚了吧?

After the sweetness of a burger meal (which is the second dinner of the night!), it was time for us to share the bitterness of the owner.  "Couldn't be worse", said he when asked about the business.  Kind of good when you knew it's rock bottom.  He treasured the staff, who understand the situation and are willing to bear with that together.  They are walking an extra mile - a staff in the kitchen has a daytime job of lion dance teaching (or teaching action in movies? We could not agree on this after leaving), and said yes when the owner asked him for extra hours at the shop after a hard day.  I think it's not "counting the blessing" to make it easier in difficult times like these, but a valuable lesson he learnt about appreciation to become a better person.  Dealing with the landlord is less than happy; he worries about whether the MTR would bring more hope than trouble (this I know, as I have heard much about the "Sai Ying Pun factor" in rental terms).

吃完甘香的第二頓晚飯 (一晚食兩餐,講都冇人信),是時候分擔一下店主的苦惱。問生意怎樣,他答:「冇得再差喇!」已掉到低得無可再低,某程度上也是好事吧。店員們明白現在的困難、更願意一齊捱,店主很感激大家。有位做廚的,白天是教龍虎武師的 (還是教「舞」師?我倆各有一個版本,也許年紀大聽錯了),做完一日,老細話人手不夠,可否頂多陣?他二話不說答應了。您或許說這是在逆境中安慰自己的感恩之語,但往往是這種日子,人們會學到寶貴的功課;像這店主,因對人多了欣賞而變得更成熟。面對業主就沒那麼溫馨了,他也納悶著到底地鐵通車是帶來曙光還是麻煩。這我倒懂,因為我聽「西營盤因素」的瘋狂加租聽太多了!

The shops there do suffer, but can they enjoy the fruit when the days get better? Or would somebody else?  I went back to the bitter taste of the Trappist dark ale.

這街的小店現在都在受苦,但好日子終於到來時,她們能嚐到美果嗎?還是由其他人吃光了?我啜飲著那微苦的修道院淡啤酒。

食好「西」(六):heart in place

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